Annapurna

NE Route

Annapurna I

April 8th, 2021
BC->C1
Time: 5:16 hours
Distance: 3.25 Miles
Elevation: 13,607->16,514 ft

Puja Ceremony

Everything on Annapurna is dangerous, even the route to Camp 1. Having ventured partway there a couple of days earlier, I had an idea of what to expect. The first challenge that demands your attention is crossing a dirt gully with a drop of over a thousand feet to the right. After this, you must rappel down another dirt gully to reach the glacier. Although the rappel itself is not technically difficult, the abundance of loose rocks makes it hazardous, so wearing a helmet is essential. Unfortunately, I had forgotten my ATC (rappelling device), so Pasang lent me his while he used a Munter hitch. This seemingly minor issue triggered a cascade of negativity in my mind, convincing me that I wasn’t a good climber and unprepared for a technical mountain like this. I tried to silence the “shitty committee” in my head, knowing that negative self-talk is never helpful.

Once on the glacier, avalanches could be seen periodically roaring down to the glacier’s floor. The climb up to Camp 1 involved scrambling over icy rocks and short sections of ice climbing. Fortunately, these challenging parts all had fixed ropes, but despite this, I remained on edge the entire day. Relief washed over me when Pasang and I finally arrived at Camp 1.

Rappelling down to glacier floor.