SE Ridge

Kanchenjunga Base Camp to C1

April 23rd, 2022
Route: BC->C2
Distance: 8.77
Time: 7 hours
Elevation: 17,962 -> 20,997

Looking up at Kanchenjunga from C2 at sunrise.

The climb toward Camp 1 begins with a rocky glacier crossing, which is covered in a layer of verglas—frozen water that makes the surface extremely slippery. Once we reach the snow, we face a moderately steep ascent that should be completed as quickly as possible. This urgency is necessary because an ice feature to the left can intermittently shed large chunks of ice, the size of cars, which can easily kill or seriously injure anyone below.

The next challenging feature we encounter is an icy traverse bulge that demands a distinct maneuver: leaning back away from the rock, with nothing but air beneath your feet, all while gripping a fixed rope. It resembles a via ferrata, but the anchors securing the rope are temporary, unlike the steel anchors found on established via ferrata routes. Once we finish the traverse, we must carefully rappel down to the glacier floor. As someone with a fear of heights, I found this particularly nerve-wracking.

Upon reaching the glacier floor, we set off on a 30-minute trek that involves several stream crossings as we make our way to Camp 2. It’s noteworthy that on this mountain, climbers typically bypass Camp 1 altogether.

When we finally arrive at C2, we find that the tents have already been set up for us, thanks to some of our Sherpa team members who have been diligently preparing the mountain for the past month. I share a tent with Jill Wheatly, a climber from Canada who has bravely overcome a traumatic brain injury and lost 70% of her vision. Despite these challenges, she is determined to climb all 14 of the world’s highest peaks. I feel both inspired by Jill’s resilience and grateful to share a tent with another female climber.

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Support Ascend Leadership Through Athletics

I am raising money for Ascend. After years of climbing some of the world’s highest peaks, I believe it’s crucial to support the communities living in the shadows of these mountains. During my travels and climbs in Pakistan in the summer of 2023, I was disheartened by the lack of Pakistani mountain guides, particularly women. Observing this situation ignited a heartfelt desire within me to empower young women in these areas. That’s why I’m teaming up with Ascend Athletics.

Ascend Athletics is an international nonprofit dedicated to empowering young women through mountaineering-based leadership training and community service. Their mission deeply resonates with my own dedication to fostering female strength and resilience.

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