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3/31: Arrival BC: Heli
This was one of the fastest summit experiences in terms of getting from Kathmandu to the top and back down; we ended up summiting just 10 days after arriving in Kathmandu. Chris, Naoki, and I joined our team, who were already acclimatizing on the mountain. Having attempted Dhaulagiri the previous year, I was eager to start climbing and hopefully achieve success this time around.
We flew into Base Camp just in time for the team’s puja ceremony. It felt strange to arrive late while the rest of the group had already completed a rotation. I couldn’t shake the worry that the other climbers might question whether we could catch up on acclimatization—and honestly, I shared that concern.
Tamting, aka Mama Sherpa who is Mingma G’s uncle. I was blessed to be able to climb with him. This was our 1st climb together.
4/2: BC ->C1
After taking a well-deserved rest day at Base Camp to acclimate to the altitude of 15,400 feet, we set off to climb the following day. Conditions on the mountain were favorable; a fresh blanket of snow covered the rocks, and the wind had compacted it, allowing us to move swiftly without sinking. By the time we reached Camp One at 19,300 feet, we had completed the ascent in approximately 5 hours and 40 minutes—significantly faster than the year before. Chris, Naoki, and I shared a tent for this rotation as well as our summit rotation.
4/3: C1 -> C2
The next day, we focused on climbing to C2. Though I managed to sleep, I was plagued by surreal high-altitude dreams, including one about a bear attacking our tent—oddly, it wasn’t as disturbing as it sounds. Breakfast consisted of coffee and a muesli bar, and then we were off. Almost immediately, I felt the effects of the altitude, and my pace slowed. Concern crept in about whether I was acclimatizing adequately, but I reminded myself to breathe and take my time. We navigated a few tricky crevasses, and before long, we arrived at C2, which had already been established by the team. After melting some snow, we decided to continue up to C3 for further acclimatization.
Approaching C1.
Hot snow heading back down to basecamp.
4/4: C2->BC
The following morning, we woke early and made our way back down to Base Camp. The next day was dedicated to rest, during which I packed and organized my gear in preparation for the summit push which I was initially planned for following day.
4/6: BC->C1
We enjoyed a much-needed rest day at basecamp before heading back up to Camp 1 around 8 a.m., along with Mama, Naoki, and Pemba. The climb felt great at first, but by the time we reached Camp 2, it was sweltering hot. I can’t help but feel a bit silly complaining about the heat when Mama is carrying so much more weight and wearing so many layers, yet he never complains.
Pemba, Naoki, Mama taking a break on the way to C1.
Mama, Pemba and Naoki with Annapurna in the background.
4/7: C1->C2
We woke up around 6:00 a.m., and by just before 8:00, we were climbing. This time, the climb felt significantly better than the previous rotation, boosting my confidence. The day was clear, offering breathtaking views of Annapurna that seemed almost surreal. We reached Camp 2 in just three hours, leaving us with plenty of time to relax, eat, and drink. Our spirits soared as we joked and laughed together, making the most of our time in the mountains.
4/8: C2->C3:
The climb was challenging right from the start. Given our abridged climbing schedule and hopes to summit early in the season, Mingma recommended we start using supplemental oxygen. I was hesitant to begin O2 at such a low elevation, but after witnessing the demands of this ascent, I understood it was the right decision.
Our first challenge was a crevasse that required a leap to cross, followed by a steep snow cliff. Even with a fixed rope, the move was difficult. I mistakenly removed my oxygen, thinking it wasn’t functioning properly, only to realize later that was a misstep.
Beyond the crevasse, the climb became relentless. While not overly technical, the steep snow and rocky terrain lacked any good resting spots. After nearly six hours of continuous climbing, we finally reached a plateau dotted with old tents from previous expeditions. I hoped this would be our campsite, but Mingma had other plans. We still needed to tackle another steep snow section before reaching Camp 3, which was situated on a small flat area. I did stop here to eat and drink as I was getting exhausted.
By the time we arrived at Camp 3, the wind had picked up, and the temperature was dropping. When I got there, Mama and the other Sherpas were already hard at work, digging out platforms and setting up tents, readying our temporary home for the night. Once again, I was grateful for all the Sherpas’ help; without them, there is no way I could be attempting this mountain on such an abridged schedule.
Naoki, me, and Mama in our tent at C3.
Sunrise on Dhaulagiri
4/9: C3->Summit -> C2
On summit day, we began our ascent at around 12:30 AM. I had opted to sleep with chemical heat packs in my socks the previous night, which turned out to be a bad idea, as my feet ended up sweaty. Fortunately, I had heated socks to wear over the wet ones, which kept my feet warm. The rope-fixing team had departed hours before us, but we quickly caught up.
As we reached a plateau before the summit, we discovered we had run out of rope. After some discussion, it was decided that we would cut the rope we were using and take it further up the mountain. While I felt uneasy about half our team being further behind, I trusted that our Sherpa guides knew what they were doing and chose not to verbalize my concerns.
After crossing the plateau, we encountered the final rocky pitch that required additional rope fixing. Chirring confidently took the lead and secured the rope here. Once we climbed over this section, we faced one last stretch that lacked fixed ropes. My hackles were raised as we approached this part, prompting me to pause and evaluate whether I felt safe to proceed. Thankfully, Mama reassured me that it was safe to continue. It was difficult to assess the risks involved, but upon reviewing photos later, I realized it would have been wiser to tackle this segment while roped up.
Chirring fixing rope on the rock below the fore-summit.
Chris and Chirring approaching the true summit.
We reached the summit about nine hours after starting, greeted by perfect weather. We took plenty of photos, and of course, I was in a hurry to get down. On the way down, fatigue set in, and I wished for a whippet or at least a ski pole to help balance and ease the strain on my knees. I had my ice axe, but the terrain wasn’t steep enough to make it particularly useful.
Tracee descending towards C2.
When we arrived at Camp Three, I expected to spend the night there, but Mingma G had other plans. Despite everyone’s exhaustion, he insisted that we keep descending. The steep terrain from Camp Three to Camp One was grueling, and I dreaded crossing the crevasse just above Camp Two. As I approached it, I had a moment of panic, thinking I might fall in, but somehow, I made it across. We crossed paths with Antonio who was planning to summit the following day.
By the time I reached Camp One, the sun was setting, and I was too tired to continue. I crawled into one of the tents and fell asleep alongside Mama Sherpa and another climber, Sasko. Some of our team made it all the way to Base Camp that evening.
4/10 C2->BC
The next day, we rose early and made our way back to Base Camp, where we savored a hot lunch before starting to pack for our helicopter flight the following day.
On the next morning, we gathered for breakfast outside, as the dining tent had already been dismantled. We spent hours in the sun, sharing laughter and jokes, relishing in the joy of our swift and successful ascent. Gina’s infectious laugh was particularly notable, brightening our spirits. Tragically, about 18 months later, Gina would lose her life while attempting to summit her 14th 8,000-meter peak.
Hokem, Chris, Keval, Jill, Gina breakfast.
Chris, Tracee, Gina
Later, we boarded a helicopter to the Italian base camp, where we would spend one last night before flying to Pokhara the next morning. It was during this time that we received the devastating news: Antonio, an experienced Greek climber from a different team, had perished near Camp 3 after reaching the summit. In that moment, the joy of our accomplishment felt profoundly overshadowed by the sorrow of his loss. It served as a stark reminder of the fragile balance between success and tragedy in the mountains, highlighting how close we always are to the dangers that accompany these climbs.