Everest 2016

4/28: BC – C1

I woke up at 1 a.m., filled with self-loathing from a hangover. After quickly getting ready, I headed to breakfast. Following the meal, I went to the bathroom, but when I returned, I found that the team had already started climbing, which made me feel hurried and angry. When I reached the Puja altar, Phurba was there, fanning the smoke from burning juniper and reminding me to be safe, which was reassuring. The scent of juniper smoke on my buff added to my sense of security.

I managed to catch up with Richie and asked him to slow down, which he did, though the pace still felt fast. Things became serious quickly after Crampon Point. I tried to stay at the front with Semba and Richie. The first challenge went well, but I almost dropped my headlamp while adjusting it. Soon, we reached our first ladder crossing, and I panicked. A stream of expletives slipped out, shocking the Sherpas, who, I believe, had never heard me swear before and were concerned something was seriously wrong. I assured them I was fine; I just tend to swear when I’m scared.

Moving through the icefall. Photo credit: Semba Takayasu

On the way towards C1. Photo: Semba Takayasu.

After some more walking, we arrived at a large vertical serac that posed a challenge, causing a significant traffic jam since there were no ladders, and people needed to actually climb it. While waiting for my turn, I began to shiver uncontrollably, unsure if it was from the cold, dehydration, or exhaustion. When it was finally my turn to climb, I struggled due to the cold and fatigue. Upon reaching the top, I unclipped and collapsed, trying to catch my breath.

The final stretch to Camp 1 consisted mostly of a gentle ascent with a few more horizontal ladders over crevasses. I was tired and had to stop frequently. Eventually, we reached Camp 1 after 7.5 hours. I collapsed in exhaustion and crawled into the tent, mustering enough strength to start melting snow for water. I checked my oxygen levels 71%—and noticed I was coughing a lot. One member of our team was still in the icefall and did not arrive until 14 hours after he left EBC.

Camp 1. Photo: Semba Takayasu.

Tracee taking a break on the way to C2. Photo Semba Takayasu.

4/29: C1 – C2

I’m not quite sure how well I slept, but I woke up feeling cold. My first priority was to head to the “bathroom”. The group was a bit restless, as we had planned to leave by eight, but not everyone was ready. I struggled to put on my boots and crampons as my hands felt freezing. Eventually, we managed to depart around 8:30 a.m.

The trail was mostly covered in snow, with a few steep sections, and overall, I felt pretty good. After several hours, we caught our first glimpse of Camp 2, yet it was still about a two-hour walk away. My pack began to feel heavy, my hip started to ache, and I found myself getting hungry and thirsty. Luckily, John, the photographer, shared some of his energy blocks with me, which provided a much-appreciated boost. As we neared Camp 2, one of the Sherpas asked if I was a guide, which made me feel good. I counted a total of eight ladders on our way to Camp 2 which seemed like a lot.

Once we arrived, we had some lunch and explored our tents. Richie and I were sharing a tent together. Before long, we received a call to assist a climber in distress. He was concerned that he might be experiencing HAPE. His oxygen saturation was at 78%, and his lungs sounded clear. We provided him with 0.5 liters of oxygen, and he started to feel better. We discussed whether he could walk down or if he would need to be evacuated by helicopter. I felt that if he did well overnight, he could manage the descent, but the next morning, his condition hadn’t changed, and he preferred to be evacuated by helicopter, as he didn’t feel safe climbing down.

Helicopter rescue at C2. Rare back in 2016 but very common now.

Camp 2 snow day.

4/30 – 5/2: Rest Days C2

Most of our first day was spent eating and resting. I checked in on a sick climber from the AC team and was relieved to find he was doing well and didn’t need evacuation. Afterward, the AC team invited me for fresh coffee and cake as a thank-you for evaluating their climber. While enjoying the treats, I had the pleasure of meeting Lydia Bradley, the first woman to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen. I also had a great conversation with Claudia, a fellow climber from Colorado who is originally from Colombia; we had climbed together on Manaslu the previous year. Afterward, I returned to our camp for dinner and fell asleep early.

The next day, we woke up to unexpected snowfall. After a restless night, I was grateful for the fresh snow, which meant at least one more rest day before moving up to Camp 3. As I got up and had breakfast, I noticed everyone else seemed disappointed, knowing the snow would keep us from ascending.

I headed to the AC camp to check on the sick climber and was glad to see he had improved. I enjoyed some fresh coffee with the AC team before returning to our camp for the rest of the day.

The following morning, both Richie and I woke with severe headaches, prompting us to take Ibuprofen and wonder about the cause. While altitude seemed the obvious answer, it was strange to develop a headache several days after reaching this elevation. We learned that one of the cooks’ helpers had been vomiting during the night, raising concerns that a gastrointestinal bug might be spreading through our team.

The day was spent playing dice and going for a 40-minute walk around Camp 2, which felt good for stretching my legs. That afternoon, I packed my gear, staying organized and ready for the journey to Camp 3 the next day. We had another freezing dinner, but I slept much better that night.

C2 dinner, Hardeep, Tracee, Richie, Greg, John, Andreas, Jaco.

Route between C2-C3. Photo: Semba Takayasu.

5/3: C2 – C3
I woke up feeling great. At breakfast, Richie mentioned that the water tasted like kerosene—exactly what I had said 24 hours earlier. When Andreas agreed it smelled like kerosene, a search began, and we discovered that an old fuel can was being used to store our melted water. It was no wonder we were all feeling nauseous and sick. After making fresh water, we finally started our climb by 8:35. Russ called us on the radio, scolding us for not starting earlier, which felt unfair since our delay was due to the kerosene water.

Leaving Camp 1, I took it easy, as it felt hot to climb in our down suits. The first hour involved relatively easy snow climbing without any major concerns. Next, we had to jump over a crevasse and tackle a bergschrund to reach the Lhotse face. It looked daunting but manageable, as it wasn’t too exposed, and I find that my fear of heights escalates with exposure.
Once on the Lhotse face, we hit a bit of a traffic jam, catching up to the AC team while the Madison Mountaineering team was descending. Once past the bottleneck, I tried to move more quickly, eager to avoid standing around on the steep, icy terrain. I stopped at lower Camp 3 to eat and drink with Richie and Semba.

Richie suggested that Semba and I continue climbing while he waited for the rest of the team. We had to navigate an ice cliff before tackling a steep section of the Lhotse face covered in hard green ice—something I had never encountered before. Semba and I found a steady rhythm, enjoying the climb up the green ice.

We reached upper Camp 3 around 3 p.m., six and a half hours after we started. Feeling pretty good, I immediately began melting snow for everyone. Greg, Richie, and Andreas arrived about two hours later. Richie mentioned he was exhausted from the long effort and struggled to warm up, taking over an hour and lots of hot tea before he felt any relief.

I kept trying to find a comfortable position to rest but ultimately gave up, realizing my discomfort and headache were due to being over 23,000 feet without supplemental oxygen. That night seemed to drag on endlessly, filled with brief periods of sleep, strange dreams, and frequent awakenings with a headache. At one point, Richie told me I was shouting in my sleep, though I don’t remember anything.

Looking out at green ice near the top of Lhotse Face. Photo: Semba Takayasu.

Looking down at the village that is C2.

5/4: C3 -> C2

Despite the unpleasantness of the previous night, I felt lethargic and reluctant to move when dawn arrived around 6:30 a.m. I was chilled inside my sleeping bag, so I decided to be lazy and let Richie start the stove for coffee. Knowing I needed to be ready for our 7:30 a.m. departure, I reluctantly pushed myself to get moving. My hands were cold, making it difficult to put on my harness and crampons, but fortunately, my feet were warm.

I was motivated to start climbing quickly, not wanting to get stuck behind the large group from IMG. While traversing from our camp to the Lhotse face, I fell up to my knee in a crevasse, which scared me, but thankfully, I was clipped to the rope and managed to pull myself out. I felt anxious while rappelling down the first few sections in route to lower Camp 3, especially at one anchor point where I struggled to find good footing. Andreas was coming up behind me like a bullet train, adding to the pressure to move. I got my safety system tangled but worked it out. By the time I reached lower Camp 3, I was quite tired and took a moment to drink some water and eat an energy bar. When the rest of the group caught up, I actually felt a bit better. The remainder of the descent was easier, and we reached Camp 2 without incident.

I briefly chatted with Emily, a badass doctor and climber with IMG. She had slept on oxygen at Camp 3 the previous night and was concerned about possibly developing bronchitis and wanted my opinion. Once we arrived back at Camp 2, we had lunch before calling it an early night in preparation for our 4 a.m. departure the next morning.

5/5: C2-EBC
We got up around 3:15 a.m., had breakfast at 3:30, and were on our way by 4 a.m. At first, I felt warm enough, but the temperature dropped as dawn approached, leaving me quite cold. I worried that my hands were getting too chilly.

Upon reaching the snow cliffs and preparing to rappel, there was a bit of a cluster of climbers, and it was looking like a potential traffic jam. Not wanting to be at the back, I pushed myself to stay near the front of the pack and felt confident and strong.

When I arrived at the headwall below Camp 1, I took a moment to eat and wait for the rest of the team while Semba continued moving. I rappelled down the headwall without incident and navigated the crooked ladder beneath it with just a few curses. As I approached the snow cliff with five ladders strung together, I decided to downclimb them. Some climbers opted to rappel beside the ladders, but with only one rope available, it actually seemed faster to climb the ladders directly. Afterward, we reached the Football Field, where we paused again to eat and hydrate

Tracee approaching start of icefall. Photo: Semba Takayasu.

Jumble of ladders in the icefall.

The icefall had changed since our earlier ascent, and now there was a double ladder that was tilted and didn’t appear secure. Richie chose to crawl across it, and I considered doing the same but ultimately decided it looked easier to walk. I carefully walked across, then faced one last tricky section before a final rappel, marking my exit from the hazardous part of the icefall. I radioed Russ to let him know I was off the ropes and through the icefall, which pleased him.

I slowly made my way back to base camp, getting slightly lost near the IMG tents. Luckily, Greg spotted me and guided me back on track. I hugged Phurba and Russ before heading to my tent to change. We enjoyed a late breakfast followed by a beer at lunch. I attempted to nap but found it impossible due to the adrenaline from the day’s climb. Later, that night, we shared some whiskey at our nightly guide meeting.

5/6 – 5/8: Rest days basecamp
We had three days to rest at base camp before our summit push, but during this time, I received the heartbreaking news of my Uncle Lee’s passing. Although I had known he was ill, I felt a deep sense of loneliness and sadness, wishing I could have said a final goodbye and hugged my aunt and cousins.

Hardeep made the difficult decision to head home. He wasn’t feeling well and didn’t feel capable of attempting the summit this year. We gathered to say our goodbyes, reflecting on the bonds we had formed during our time together and wishing him well on his journey back. These bittersweet moments reminded us all of the importance of family and the uncertainty we faced in this high-altitude adventure.

Our amazing Sherpa team: Nawang, Nima, Galjen, Ang Karma, Sonam

Puja alter.

5/9: BC – C2
Our summit rotation started with breakfast followed by prayers at the Puja alter for safe passage on the mountain. This time I felt like we were climbing at a manageable pace and overall, I felt better physically and more confident mentally which was such a relief. Our first real break came at the Football Field. I was still feeling good so I moved up to the front of the group to climb with Richie. It felt good to be in the lead, but I couldn’t quite keep up with Richie, but I was feeling faster than the others.

When I got to the top of the headwall I was finally able to catch up with Semba and we sat together to eat and drink. I was so happy to feel better than last time. I tried to keep up with Semba but his pace was too fast so I slowed down and went at my own speed. I fell into the pack of “smoking Sherpa “who called me strong and let me climb with them. I kept waiting for the sun to come out, but it stayed hidden behind the clouds and the climb to C2 was cold.

Richie in the icefall.

Western Cwm.

When we reach the edge of C2 I see Greg catching me which motivates me push a little harder. Today it takes us 9 hour to come directly to C2 which is much quicker than on the pervious rotation. Had some soup and then try to take a nap. We discussed taking a rest day here at C2 since the weather was unpredictable up top and the Sherpas needed one more day to fix the summit ridge with rope. I was grateful for the day to let my body rest at bit.

5/11: C2-C3

We set off at 7:30 with an unexpected surprise: Greg, who is usually tardy, was punctual, highlighting his eagerness. One team member had a bit of a toilet mishap, and I initially forgot my headlamp and medicine but managed to retrieve them just in time. The excitement seemed to have us all slightly off-kilter. As we steadily approached the Lhotse Face, a commotion broke out. Joe, one of the camera crew, shouted that someone had fallen down the face into a crevasse. Only Richie and Joe witnessed it, and we felt compelled to investigate. Joe, Richie, and Ang Karma roped together to explore the situation, leaving me responsible for our group of climbers. Just as I was taking a quick break to use my pee funnel, Richie’s voice boomed over the radio, startling me and causing me to pee inside my down suit. Thankfully, it turned out to be a false alarm: what they saw was a tent, not a person. A huge relief. Of course, now I imagined I would smell like urine for the rest of the climb…

Route C2 ->C3 on Lhotse Face. Climbers visible as small dots.

Tracee in our tent at C3.

Our next challenge was the bergschrund. I paused to eat and drink, allowing a group to get ahead of me, which proved to be a mistake as their pace was much slower. Concerned for safety, I opted to switch ropes, using the one designated for descending to overtake them. The effort was significant but necessary. After a brief rest, I was relieved to learn that Richie also managed to bypass the group. I continued towards lower Camp 3, moving slowly due to the intense solar radiation. Upon arrival, I found a patch of flat ground next to a stack of oxygen tanks and took a longer break before reluctantly pressing on, following a group of Sherpas. The once daunting path seemed slightly less intimidating this time but was still challenging. When the Sherpas paused to offload their packs, I found myself alone again but quickly caught up to Ang Karma, who provided a reassuring presence as we navigated the green ice, which was more manageable thanks to numerous crampon grooves.

Reaching upper Camp 3 around 3 PM, roughly seven hours after starting, the last steps were arduous, and I was relieved to finally drop my pack. I shared some energy chews with Ang Karma and began melting snow for water. Richie joined a bit later, and we settled into camp, organizing our tent and preparing water. Richie demonstrated how to craft a pillow from our boots.

We learned that the rope-fixing team had reached the summit a few hours earlier and were now headed back to C2. We were ecstatic about this news, especially since two of the Himex Sherpas, Gyaljen and Nima, were part of the fixing team. We prepared water and hot chocolate for them to drink when they arrived at C3. It was exciting to see them all and congratulate and thank them for their work.

By 9 PM, exhaustion had us ready for sleep. Though frequent interruptions kept me awake at first, I eventually settled into a more restful night on half a liter of oxygen. A half dose of Ambien helped improve my rest significantly compared to the previous night. It was a relief when Russ announced we could leave at 8:30 the following morning.

View from C3.

Andreas climbing above C3. Photo: Semba Takayasu.

5/12: C3 – C4

As the sun began to warm our tent, we woke up and settled into our morning routine of boiling water and preparing for the day ahead. I had plenty of time to fuss around, and we finally left Camp 3 around 9:30 AM. The Sherpas suggested I lead the way, but feeling hesitant, I let Jaco take the lead instead. His slow and steady pace felt more comfortable to me, especially as I adjusted to using oxygen for the first time. At first, the mask felt claustrophobic, and I struggled to breathe, as though the tube connecting the mask to the tank was constricting my air supply. But after a few minutes, I became accustomed to the new sensations and started to move better.

When we reached the Yellow Band, we climbed it without any issues. After a short break, Namgyal reassured me by saying I was strong, which made me feel proud, even though I knew I was only able to climb with Sherpa support. As we prepared to move on, Richie decided he needed to stay back to wait for the last climber in our group, which made perfect sense since he was our guide.

As I continued on, the next challenge—the Geneva Spur—loomed ahead. It appeared exposed and intimidating, prompting me to remind myself that I had skied down slopes just as steep, but this reasoning did little to calm my overactive amygdala. Later, both Richie and Jaco confessed they had felt the same way on that spur. It was the first moment when I truly felt nervous and slightly overwhelmed by the reality of climbing Everest. After negotiating the spur, I enjoyed about a 30-minute walk to Camp 4. I arrived here around 2:30 pm which was 4 ½ hour after leaving C3.

Arriving at Camp 4 in the South Col brought immense relief. Sonam greeted us with three heaping bowls of the most delicious, sweet black tea I had ever tasted—it felt like pure comfort. Nima Soma graciously carried my bags to the tent, and Richie and I collected snow to begin the 5+ hour process of melting it into water.

Route to Camp IV. Photo Semba Takayasu.

Selfies above 26,000 ft.

While Richie checked on the others, I busily focused on making water, trying and trying to eat some cheese. I stared at the remaining route towards the summit listening to Cake’s “Worth It” to get myself pumped. I felt relatively strong in spirit, though fear lingered at the back of my mind.

When Richie returned, we shared a few laughs, which lightened the mood. As the sun dipped below the horizon, the cold set in, making it difficult for me to warm my toes. I tried putting chemical heat packs on my socks which helped a bit. Eventually, despite the chill, both Richie and I soon nodded off to sleep, grateful for the shelter of our tent.

5/13: C4 – Summit – C2
We woke up at midnight and turned on the stove to boil water and brew coffee. Just after 1 AM, I set off with Nima Soma, the Sherpa I am climbing to the summit with and a friend I have known for years. A mix of nervousness and excitement coursed through me, and I reminded myself that these feelings were intertwined, choosing to focus on the exhilaration. The sky was dark yet vibrant with stars, the only other illumination coming from our headlamps. While the oxygen felt somewhat suffocating, I appreciated the warmth and energy it provided.

Not long into our ascent, my headlamp began to flicker and dim. I had just replaced the batteries a day ago, but the cold was taking its toll. I paused to ask Nima if we could stop while I switched out the batteries.

The view from inside our tent at C4 (26,200 ft) within the Death Zone on Everest.

South Summit hours after the squall clears and we are on our way back down.

The trail leading up to the Balcony was blanketed in fresh snow, which meant that passing others would require us to break the trail—an exhausting task at this altitude. Nima and I reached the Balcony around 4 AM, just as the first hints of dawn began to lighten the sky. This is where the Sherpas had cached oxygen tanks. We swiftly exchanged our first tank for our second, their efficiency reminiscent of a pit stop at a car race. In just a few minutes, we were ready to continue.

Before moving on, I took a moment to relieve myself. Little did I know, it would turn out to be the last time I’d pee for the entire day. As we departed the Balcony, light snow began to fall, but Nima and I continued our steady ascent toward the South Summit. By the time we reached it, the weather had taken a turn for the worse, with snow and wind pelting us from all sides. Thoughts of the 1996 Everest tragedy crept into my mind, filling me with fear and sadness, as I wondered if we would need to turn back. I contemplated the possibility of a second summit attempt later in the month, though I knew that was unlikely.

Before leaving the South Summit, we were meant to switch to our third oxygen tank. While I noticed others doing it, Nima assured me that my tank was full enough. This made me uneasy, but given Nima’s extensive experience on Everest, I decided to trust his judgment.

Next, we approached the Hillary Step, which was surprisingly covered in snow and not particularly remarkable. Later, we discussed whether the earthquake from the previous year had displaced part of this section, making it easier to climb.

After the Hillary Step was the final ridge to the summit. This section terrified me; to my left, the ground dropped several thousand feet down to base camp, and to my right, it plummeted several thousand feet into Tibet. Nima and I were alone in the front of the group at this point. As we navigated the ridge and got closer to the summit, I suddenly felt extremely lightheaded and thought I might pass out. Remembering we hadn’t switched out my oxygen, I sat down and asked Nima to help me change the tank.

Looking up towards the summit ridge. Photo: Semba Takayasu.

Summit Everest. Photo: Semba Takayasu.

I’m not entirely sure what happened next, but I definitely lost consciousness. When I woke up, Richie was by my side, telling me I needed to make the final push to the summit. I responded that there was no way I could go because I was out of oxygen. Richie informed me he had switched my tank and that I had been sitting there for about 15 minutes. He encouraged me to head up to the summit. I was shocked at how much time I had lost. At that point, I could see Greg and a few others at the summit. Summoning my strength, I joined them. Feeling uneasy and nervous, I was reluctant to spend much time up there, so after snapping a few photos, we began our descent.

I felt completely on edge during the descent, constantly aware that I was far beyond my comfort zone, with no reference point for managing my fear. The oxygen incident had left me dumbfounded; on one hand, I was incredibly grateful that Richie recognized the problem and helped me, but on the other, I couldn’t shake the worry that I might have caused serious damage to my brain when I lost consciousness. With no other options, Nima and I descended slowly.

Tracee & Nima Soma on Everest summit. Photo: Richie Hunter.

Descending off the summit with Lhotse in the distance. Photo: Richie Hunter.

The ridge traverse heightened my anxiety, and at one point, I stepped onto a piece of snow that broke away, leaving me partially suspended by the fixed rope. Before I could process what was happening, Nima reached out and pulled me back onto the traverse. My mind seemed to shut down and slip into survival mode; I began bargaining with the universe, pleading to make it down alive.

Eventually, we reached the Balcony, where the sun was shining and the day felt warm—a stark contrast to the storm we had endured just hours earlier. I finally attempted to calm myself and savor the moment, but it was nearly impossible. When we arrived at Camp 4, I collapsed in our tent, eager to eat, drink, and sleep. However, before I could settle in, I was informed that our entire team needed to descend to Camp 2 that afternoon. “What?” I thought. This wasn’t what we had agreed upon. There was no way I could make it! I tried to argue, but ultimately conceded to follow the team’s orders.

After an hour of eating and drinking, it was time to move again. Nima Soma had work to do breaking down Camp 4, so Gyaljen—who hadn’t summited that day but was present in case someone needed assistance—decided I was the one in need of help. He joined Richie and me as we made our way back to Camp 2. A wave of shame washed over me; as the team’s doctor, it was my responsibility to help others, yet after the oxygen mishap, I found myself needing extra assistance. Shame is such a futile emotion, but mercifully, there was no time to wallow in it; we still had to descend.

Step by step, we slowly made our way down the Geneva Spur, traversed to the Yellow Band, and then rappelled down to eventually reach Camp 3.

While resting at Camp 3, I noticed a sharp pain in my neck that made it difficult to turn my head. I wondered what was happening; my head didn’t hurt, but my balance felt severely impaired. Richie asked if I thought I might have HACE, fluid on the brain. I replied that I didn’t have a headache, so I doubted it. As I fumbled with my harness, Richie suggested I take Dexamethasone, a powerful steroid that helps reduce brain swelling associated with HACE. Initially, I hesitated, but then Richie posed a question: “What would you do as the doctor if someone else in your group exhibited the symptoms you’re experiencing?” I realized I was being stubborn and promptly took the Dex.

Descending the summit ridge. Photo: Richie Hunter.

Richie Hunter Everest Summit. Big thanks for everything that day!!

I can’t say it helped immediately, but gradually I noticed my balance improving. Feeling exhausted, I didn’t make it back to Camp 2 until after dark, being the last one from our team to arrive. The familiar wave of shame threatened to wash over me again, but I was too exhausted to give it much thought. After a warm bowl of soup and a cup of tea, I climbed into my sleeping bag and went to sleep, back on oxygen as per the guides’ orders.

Initially, our plan had been to rise at 4 AM and continue the descent to base camp the following morning. I expressed to Richie and Russ that there was no way I could safely do this, and to my surprise, they agreed. Once the rest of the team learned I was taking a rest day at Camp 2 before heading to base camp, many of them decided to do the same.

5/15: C2 – EBC
After a day’s rest at Camp 2 and taking Dexamethasone, I felt rejuvenated and ready to make my way down to Everest Base Camp. The descent was straightforward and almost enjoyable. With my confidence restored, I knew the hardest part was behind me.

As we encountered other teams headed up, they paused to congratulate us, as our team was the first commercial group to summit since 2013. While all the credit goes to the Sherpas who fixed the ropes to the top, it was still fun to receive high fives and congratulations as we descended.
When we finally arrived at Base Camp, the staff greeted us enthusiastically, banging pots together and handing out champagne in celebration.

The next day we began the process of packing up camp and eventually our group headed back down to Lukla on foot.

Last time through the icefall. Photo: Jaco Ottink.

Post summit group photo.

Photo: Mathias Braschler, Monika Fischer.

About dZi Foundation

dZi Foundation has worked in Nepal for more than 20 years, partnering with communities across the Koshi River Basin — in the Solukhumbu, Khotang, and Bhojpur districts — to build critical infrastructure, reliable water systems, inclusive livelihoods, and climate resilience. Their programs have reached over 61,000 people, with a goal of serving 33,000 more across six municipalities.

Every trekker on this journey commits to raising a minimum of $500 for dZi. Those funds go directly to the communities dZi serves — empowering marginalized households so that the next generation in Nepal can thrive.

To learn more about dZi Foundation, visit dzifoundation.org