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Day 1
Skardu – Askole
Day 1 of our journey to K2 commenced in Skardu, Pakistan. I was awakened by the sound of the morning call to prayer resonating from the loudspeakers outside my motel room. As I gazed outside, I was greeted by the glorious sight of the sun peeking over the Karakorum range, painting the sky with a pinkish hue. It was a stark contrast to the cramped and antiquated van that had transported us through the night, leaving our bodies stiff from the arduous descent of Nanga Parbat just the previous day. Sleep eluded us, not only due to the confined space, but also because our driver spent the majority of the journey engaged in animated conversations on not one, but two cell phones. Unfortunately, our timing prevented us from witnessing the potentially breathtaking and awe-inspiring vistas along the Indus River as we traversed through the darkness. Finally, upon reaching Skardu, we were grateful for a few days of much-needed respite and the chance to catch up on laundry.
Skardu, a sanctuary nestled amidst towering giants, extended a warm embrace. The ensuing days blurred together in a whirlwind of eating, doing laundry, organizing our gear, and acquainting ourselves with the rest of the team. It was here that I met PS, a fellow K2 female climber whose visa snafu was a stroke of luck for me since it meant we would travel together over the next week to K2 basecamp.
Initially, our plan was to trek with our dependable leader, Mingma G, and our teammates Toby and Naoki, who had their sights set on climbing the Gasherbrums. However, fate seemingly had different intentions. Permit delays prolonged our stay in Skardu from a mere “few days” into a week, and with the mountain Gods growing impatient, Mingma G decided that PS and I should not wait any longer. Thus, on July 9th, my 49th birthday, we bid farewell to Skardu, relying on the vintage Land Cruisers as our steadfast companions for the forthcoming leg of our expedition.
The asphalted highway soon surrendered to a narrow dirt road, a dusty trail meandering through the heart of the wilderness. Steep cliffs plummeted on one side, while the Indus River raged as a torrential force below us. The Toyota vehicle, a testament to human ingenuity and defiance against the elements, roared and jolted, its tires showering a cascade of gravel as we navigated seemingly gravity-defying switchbacks.
Our driver exhibited remarkable skill, not only in driving but also in improvising impromptu repairs, a vital ability considering the absence of tow trucks or auto shops in these remote regions. After six hours of travel, multiple encounters with police checkpoints, and a brief halt due to a minor engine issue, we finally arrived in Askole, a humble village that would serve as our starting point for the trek to K2. I felt fortunate that our journey had proceeded seamlessly, considering that travel in these areas often experiences significant delays due to landslides and washed-out bridges.
As the day drew to a close after a satisfying dinner, the team’s cook pleasantly surprised me with a birthday cake adorned with flickering candles. We also managed to enjoy a few hours of cell phone service, thanks to the lodge owners nearby, who were permitted to operate the generator for a limited duration each evening. Heartwarming messages from friends and family, wishing me a joyful birthday, provided the perfect conclusion to an eventful day.
