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7/10: BC -> C1
We arrived at base camp on June 5th after a six-day trek, which is detailed separately. We had a few days to rest while participating in a Puja, and during this time, the Sherpas attempted to carry some gear up to C1. Their attempt was thwarted by deep snow, route-finding challenges, and crevasses, with Dawa Gyalje falling into a crevasse but fortunately emerging unharmed.
Tracee, Tracy, and Sasko at Puja
Happy Birthday to me!
The terrain was both confusing and difficult to navigate, with wands marking our path—some from previous years—which only added to the uncertainty. Instead of relying on fixed ropes, we traveled in two rope teams. At the top of the icefall, a short section of fixed rope aided our crossing over a large crevasse. Once above the icefall, the terrain leveled out, but numerous hazardous crevasses still lay ahead. Thankfully, the snow bridges were thick and sturdy at this point, a condition that would change as the season progressed.
The final stretch to C1 felt like an endless journey, and by the time the sun rose, its heat reflected off the glacier and began to scorch us. When we finally arrived and set up camp, I was exhausted but felt relatively okay. However, soon after our arrival, it started to rain and continued pouring until the next morning, which was somewhat disheartening. I worried that this weather would make the snow rotten for our descent back to Base Camp. Eventually, as the temperature dropped, the rain transitioned into snow.
7/11: C1-> near C2 -> C1
Woke up at 5 am to wet snow falling. We decided to go to C2 since the Sherpa’s needed to carry loads up the mountain and we all needed the acclimatization. The climb began flat but soon steepened. After reaching a plateau, we encountered the famous “Banana Ridge.” Climbing with a splint on my left forearm complicated things, so I used a jumar in my left hand to keep my right arm free for my ice axe. Ang Du stayed close to ensure my safety which I greatly appreciated.
The weather fluctuated between stifling heat and freezing winds. Upon reaching the top of Banana Ridge, we faced a tricky exposed section with a fixed rope, requiring careful navigation around descending climbers—a tense situation with a cornice to the right and a steep snow couloir to the left.
Ang Du with climbers below.
Looking back up towards the Banana Ridge once the weather improved.
After carefully negotiating this section, Daddy and I descended together. He was patient, which I appreciated, and I rappelled down to Camp 1 while he checked and rebuilt anchors that didn’t meet his standards. There was a tense moment when my crampon slipped off during the descent, but fortunately, it was a non-issue. It became clear to me that I was going to need to climb without the splint as the splint was too clumsy.
As we neared Basecamp, the weather improved, revealing the area’s stunning beauty that reminded me of Denali. We returned around 5 PM to a dinner of hot soup and freeze-dried food. Knowing I was dehydrated, I focused on drinking water.
7/12: return to BC
Woke up at 5 AM and began descending by 6. It drizzled lightly the entire way down, creating a depressing atmosphere. The route was mostly uneventful, except for some jumps to navigate. I did step into a crevasse up to my knee, but thankfully the rope held, allowing me to self-extract.
Eventually, we reached the crampon point and spotted someone from Basecamp showing us the way, which was a relief. Once down, I immediately changed out of my wet clothes and tried to eat some soup, but my poor appetite worried me. I was still experiencing diarrhea, leading me to stop taking the antibiotics for my forearm as I worried the antibiotics might be causing the diarrhea.
After lunch, I lay in my tent, feeling lethargic as the temperature oscillated between stifling hot and cold. I had no energy to drink the water I desperately needed. At dinner, I couldn’t eat at all due to my lack of appetite and ongoing diarrhea.
Uta and Tracee C2 (because I was feeling too sick to take photos back at BC).
7/13 – 7/17: Rest days at BC
Due to the weather and the need to coordinate our summit attempt and rope-fixing efforts with other teams, we ended up taking four rest days. This turned out to be beneficial for me, as I was experiencing significant diarrhea, which I suspected was caused by the antibiotics I had been taking. After discontinuing the antibiotics and using large doses of Pepto-Bismol and Imodium, the diarrhea persisted. Concerned I might have giardia, I decided to start taking Tinidazole. To my surprise, Tinidazole worked, and my diarrhea resolved, allowing me to gradually start eating and regain my strength.
7/17: BC -> C1
Today, we set out a little after midnight, beginning with prayers at the puja altar before starting our climb. This time, the journey feels much easier—I’m not sure if it’s actually easier or if I simply have a better sense of what to expect. As usual, there are ups and downs and river crossings, but we seem to go further without needing to rope up. Eventually, I notice the snow sounding hollow beneath us, prompting me to feel anxious about roping together again. Not long after, we form rope teams of two.
Kili, Tracy, Pemba, Daddy at puja alter before heading up.
Sunrise
Before too long, we reach a serious jump, which we all navigate without issue. I can’t help but feel apprehensive about crossing it on the way back. Afterward, we arrive at the plateau, where the sky is painted pink. In moments like this, it’s hard not to believe in a power greater than myself. I want to stop and capture the beauty with photos, but Daddy suddenly seems in a hurry. I manage to snap a quick shot to hold onto this stunning moment.
There are far more people climbing this mountain than I expected. We see Uta and her husband, and I feel a mix of curiosity and jealousy about how it would be to have Adam here. Uta is clearly in her element, while this high-altitude world is new for him, yet he seems to be enjoying it; his positive attitude is infectious.
Tracy and Daddy in the heat of the day.
Waldi from Poland.
7/18: C1->C2
Upon waking, we found cloud cover, which promised to make the climb more pleasant. I felt significantly more confident navigating Banana Ridge this time, as I was no longer hindered by my clumsy arm brace. The descent into Camp 2 (C2) was steep with wet snow, yet a fixed rope helped mitigate potential hazards.
C2 itself was quite crowded, with our tents arranged closely together. When Waldi from Poland arrived, he played “Bad Boys” by Bob Marley, which contributed to a lively and festive atmosphere among the group. Thankfully, Tracy and I share a tent without any men.
7/19 – 7/20: Rest Days
Woke up to unexpected snowfall and a lot of chatter among the teams. Eventually, some groups, including Uta and Josette, moved up to the actual C2.
Kili and Ang Du worked on fixing ropes to C3, while Daddy and Pemba retrieved the cache from below.
Both nights we prepared to move to C3 but then ultimately changed our minds due to high winds on the summit.
7/21: C2->C3
Leave a bit after 6. Start using 1 liter 02. Route is mellow at first but becomes progressively steeper. The crux is a pitch of blue ice that culminates in negotiating a tricky crevasse crossing. I am grateful for the fixed rope since the snow bridge starts to collapse as I cross it. Kilu is just ahead of me and quickly gives me a hand so I do not completely fall in. Once above the crevasse the terrain eases and we decide to make our Camp 3 here. The Sherpas set up our tents and I am grateful for their help. Before too long we are all inside our tents melting snow and trying to eat. Sadly, Tracy has turned around and decided to go down. This means that Sasko, Daddy, Ang Du, and Pemba and I share a tent.
7/22: C3-> Summit->C3
We had initially planned to wake up around 8 PM, but persistent wind and snow prompted us to wait until 11 PM instead. After an hour of preparation, we began our ascent at midnight. For breakfast, I opted for a mix of coffee and freeze-dried curry, which left my stomach feeling unsettled. As we started our climb, we encountered teams returning from the summit who had already been climbing for almost 30 hours straight.
Surprisingly, I felt good during the early stages of the climb. However, the terrain soon steepened, and the snow turned sugary and bottomless, causing my hips and knees to protest. Communication became nearly impossible as the wind howled around us. Kili and Ang Du led the way, not only breaking trail but also fixing ropes on the few sections that required them. Even though other teams had summited the day before us the wind hand deposited new snow and covered up their tracks. After about five exhausting hours, we finally reached C4. Unfortunately, the area was littered with trash left by previous expeditions, a stark reminder of past climbs. We huddled behind a rock for some shelter, trying to eat and hydrate. We exchanged our partially used oxygen tanks for fresh ones, reducing our load as we planned to retrieve the remaining O2 for our descent.
A wave of relief washed over me when we reached the traverse. The sun peeked out intermittently, and the wind shifted to gusts rather than the constant roar we had endured earlier.
Video: Approaching C3. Credit Kili Sherpa
Summit shout out the surgeon’s back in Vail who help this aging body keep climbing.
Photo credit: Dawa Galje Sherpa
Our pace settled into that frustrating middle ground—not slow enough to justify breaks for food or a bathroom, yet not fast enough to feel like we were making significant progress. Eventually, I had to stop for a bathroom break, which led the group to pause as well. As we neared the end of the traverse, Daddy brought up the question of whether to continue or turn back. Both Sakso and I were eager to push on, but I voiced my concerns about our oxygen supply. Kilu reassured me that we would be fine, and in the end, we all agreed to press forward. I was roped to Daddy, while Kilu, Ang Du, and Sakso moved ahead. Shortly after, we noticed a lone figure descending from the summit with minimal gear. We later learned that this person was attempting a Fastest Known Time (FKT) ascent.
The final ridge to the true summit was exposed and daunting. While there was a fixed rope, it resembled more of a shoelace than a secure safety line. Committed to reaching the summit, we pressed on. Upon reaching the top, we took photos and radioed Basecamp. I felt a sense of urgency to begin our descent. The traverse seemed even more intimidating on the way back down, but once we cleared it, the remainder of the descent felt less treacherous. We roped together in sections and alternated who led the way.
Eventually, we made it back to Camp 3 (C3) just as the sun was setting. Exhausted, I settled into a restless sleep.
7/23: C3-> C1
We woke up at dawn and broke down our tents and headed to C1. The climb was thankfully uneventful. We did stop at C2 to gather the remainder of our gear as well as to melt snow and eat. When we got to C1 we all went to sleep knowing our plan was to move up on G1 the following day.
Coming back down the Banana Ridge.