Day 5

Urdukas to Goro II

Sleep was elusive in this crowded camp, and I woke up around 3 am as other trekkers and climbers were making noise. I was relieved to find out that our cook, Saddam, was feeling much better when I woke up. The nausea medicine had effectively alleviated his symptoms, allowing him to eat and drink. It appeared that heat exhaustion was the most likely diagnosis. Considering that the day prior, he and his friend Shahbaz had carried heavy loads and moved swiftly ahead of the rest of the group, I advised him to refrain from carrying a heavy load and to walk at a slower pace while ensuring he drank plenty of water. Nonetheless, there was a lingering concern that his symptoms might be indicative of acute mountain sickness, considering our elevation of over 13,000 feet at this point. I knew that if his symptoms were altitude-related, they would likely worsen during the day, necessitating a rest day.

Compared to the previous day, today’s trek was shorter and more relaxed. We indulged in three rest breaks to savor our meals and the breathtaking views, with Gasherbrum IV dominating our scenery. Unlike the previous day, we were well-prepared with utensils when we stopped to eat hot soup.

Intermittent cell phone service was available along this segment of the trek. It was easy to spot these spots as groups of porters, trekkers, and climbers congregated there, using their phones whenever they could catch a signal.

Upon reaching Goro II before noon, we had the rest of the day to simply unwind and soak in the stunning vistas. The weather was perfect. I entertained the idea of washing my hair, but the frigid flowing water made it seem unwise.” Saddam reported to me that he had no headache or nausea and overall was feeling better than the previous day. I was relieved since this took acute mountain sickness off potential diagnoses.