July 27th
Summit Attempt
Around 8 pm, a few restless hours into sleep, I was awakened by the sound of Sherpas boiling water in our tent. In a daze, I focused solely on getting ready. By the time Thundu and I emerged from the tent around 10 pm, most climbers were ahead, which I welcomed, anticipating a firmer trail due to compacted snow. Despite our later start, the snow remained sugary and felt bottomless, each step straining my knee. Frustration and fatigue set in unexpectedly. While aware of my knee’s limitations, the discomfort in the soft snow was maddening. I communicated my struggles to Thundu, and we paused for me to take Naproxen, hoping to alleviate the pain.I considered taking Dexamethasone, a medication used for both high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE) and inflammation. As an expedition doctor, I firmly believed that starting Dexamethasone signaled descent. Deciding to stick to my principles, the Dexamethasone remained in my first-aid kit.
Soon, we reached a plateau, which I assumed was the standard location for Camp 4. However, this year, the area was devoid of tents, as no teams were using this camp. The altitude played tricks on my mind, conjuring whimsical thoughts of a hidden ski lodge or an all-night ski race checkpoint – a stark contrast to reality. Pausing to hydrate, Thundu and I spotted the daunting Bottleneck couloir and traverse, where a long line of headlamps, motionless or crawling, sparked concern. Instinctively, I worried, experience teaching me that standing around would make us cold and waste precious oxygen. Thundu and I radioed basecamp, but Mingma G, unsure of the situation above, advised us to continue. Shortly after, a small avalanche occurred ahead, prompting many to turn back. Recognizing that we were approaching the climb’s most dangerous section, I knew I couldn’t continue under these conditions. I informed Thundu, who, to my relief, agreed to descend. We radioed Mingma G of our decision, and he didn’t object.
Later, friends asked if it was difficult to turn around. Honestly, it was one of the easiest decisions I’ve ever made. Only the next day did I learn that a Pakistani member of the rope-fixing team had fallen and was dying above us on the traverse.
Tracing our steps back to high camp, dawn arrived with a group ahead flying a drone, creating an otherworldly scene reminiscent of a spaceship hovering above. The challenging descent finally led us back to our tent, where we collapsed in exhaustion, finding solace in much-needed rest.
Waking a few hours later, I heard David and his Sherpa approaching. David, who had previously suffered a collapsed lung and HAPE, was unsure how his body would react to the extreme altitude. Now, he knew his climb was over. I remember feeling happy to hear his voice.
John soon contacted us via radio, having lost his InReach (satellite tracker), knowing his wife back in Australia would be worried. He requested that Mingma G inform her of his safety. Mingma, already in touch with John’s wife, had not only assured her of his well-being but also revealed that John was climbing without supplemental oxygen.
Mingma G contacted me again, sharing an updated weather forecast indicating a 24-hour window before the approaching storm. He suggested Thundu and I attempt the summit again the next day. This news caught me off guard, as I had already accepted that my climb was over. The idea of trying again was intriguing, especially since I wasn’t overly tired or sick. I requested an hour to think, and he readily agreed. I exchanged texts with friends and family, both at home and basecamp, and to my surprise, everyone supported another attempt the following day. Thundu concurred, and so, our decision was made.
We spent the rest of the day listening on the radio to updates on other teams’ progress. Around noon, we learned that Kristen Harrila and her team of Sherpas had summited. Soon after, news came in that John and PS had also reached the top. I was surprised they had all made it in such challenging conditions, but I was happy for them.
Thundu and I spent the rest of the day melting snow and trying to eat. We both fell into a fitful rest around 5 pm.
