July 28th

Summit Attempt #2

We began preparing to depart around 6 pm. Stepping out of our tent, we observed a stream of headlamps descending from above and ascending from below. The climb back towards C4 proved challenging, with a trench of unconsolidated snow. Despite the difficulty, my confidence was bolstered knowing the ropes were now secured to the summit. Among the climbers descending were PS and Kilu Sherpa whom I congratulated for their successful summit.

Ascending past C4 to the point where we had turned back the previous night, we encountered no line of headlamps impeding our progress. Progressing through the Bottleneck, we reached a steep section just below the traverse. I recognized that we were now underneath the hanging serac. Focused on controlling what I could, emphasizing good footwork, efficient ascender transfers, and steady breathing, I attempted to maintain composure. Tragically, we encountered the body of Hassan, a high-altitude porter who had passed away just the day before. The shock and sorrow were overwhelming, but I resolved to set aside processing his death until safely back at basecamp.

Navigating the traverse, we confronted an icy slope that demanded precise front-pointing and complete attention. Midway up this tricky part I suddenly felt completely drained of energy and knew something was wrong. Then I realized I knew this sensation and that my oxygen was empty. Having felt this before, I did not panic but just kept climbing, slowly, ever so slowly. After managing this tricky section, I rested briefly as Thundu assisted me in swapping out the oxygen tank. As we left the technical challenges behind, a surge of excitement stirred within me, although it was tempered by the somber presence of a deceased climber from Iceland who had died in 2021, a stark reminder of the mountain’s dangers.

The final stretch of the ascent unfolded without incident, yet it remained physically demanding, compounded by fresh snow accumulation that we had to wallow through. Around 7 am we reached the summit plateau, it seemed unreal that we were finally standing here and that it was sunny and free from crowds. We shared the summit with a couple of people from a Russian team but for the most the summit was peaceful. After snapping a few photos and eating some Gu Chews we began our descent. I have never been one to celebrate on summits since the summit represents the furthest point from the safety of basecamp and most climbers know that most deaths occur on the descent.

The descent was aided by the sunlight, providing warmth and improved visibility. After negotiating the bottleneck, we paused for a much-needed rest to refuel. Hastening our movements with an approaching storm in mind, we swiftly packed our gear upon returning to high camp and commenced the descent. Enveloped in a cloud as we neared C3, the sections without rope posed challenges in the flat light. Arriving at C3, I noted the numerous tents and trash left behind by climbers who had already descended. I was too exhausted to be angry about the tents left here as trash and instead climbed inside one with Thundu and Lakpa to get warm. Anticipating a brief pause, we unexpectedly drifted into a deep slumber for over an hour. Upon awakening to the raging storm, we swiftly discarded thoughts of remaining at C3 due to its avalanche-prone nature and the increasing snowfall.

Embarking on the daunting descent down the mountain, the initial gentle snow slopes made the descent manageable. However, as we reached the Black Pyramid, the storm intensified making it impossible to keep our goggles clear or our hands warm. Multiple hours of meticulous rappelling led us to some abandoned tents that likely belonged to the Russian team’s upper C2. It was at this moment that one of my contact lenses froze and the wind forcefully blew it out of my eye. Because I needed to get into my pack for a new contact and because it was getting dark, and we were completely exhausted we decided to crawl inside one of the abandoned tents for the night. Once inside we all realized we were shivering and starting to get hypothermic. We heated some water and found some old ramen soup which we shared before all falling into a fitful sleep.

Support Ascend Leadership Through Athletics

I am raising money for Ascend. After years of climbing some of the world’s highest peaks, I believe it’s crucial to support the communities living in the shadows of these mountains. During my travels and climbs in Pakistan in the summer of 2023, I was disheartened by the lack of Pakistani mountain guides, particularly women. Observing this situation ignited a heartfelt desire within me to empower young women in these areas. That’s why I’m teaming up with Ascend Athletics.

Ascend Athletics is an international nonprofit dedicated to empowering young women through mountaineering-based leadership training and community service. Their mission deeply resonates with my own dedication to fostering female strength and resilience.

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