Lhotse Trek

Day 3

Phortse to Dingboche

I didn’t sleep very well and was up by 6 AM, anxiously waiting for the moment it would be socially acceptable to ask the kitchen staff for hot water. By 7 AM, I could no longer resist and ventured in to make my request.

Breakfast was satisfying, and with our bellies full, we hit the road under a bright, cheerful sky. As I trekked along, my mind wandered back to my past adventures with IMG on the way to Ama Dablam. I still chuckle at the memory of Mike, the cardiologist, and me getting scolded for walking too quickly. We were moving so slow that a group of monks carrying an injured llama actually passed us! Our laughter only landed us in deeper trouble, but it seemed absurd to be reprimanded for wanting to enjoy the scenery at our own pace.

Finally, we reached Pangboche, home to the oldest monastery in the region. It was here that I bumped into Ricky, the girl I had met on Quandary just a few weeks prior. To my surprise, an Indian man approached me and asked my name. When I told him, he lit up and said he recognized me from an article about Shishapangma! “Can I take a photo with you?” he asked, and I chuckled, “Of course, but I’m not famous.” His reply, “You will be,” gave me a delightful fan girl moment.

Our next stop was to see the lama for a blessing, which involved some prayers, oil placed softly on my head, a kata, and blessed rice. It was a spiritually enriching experience that I’ll cherish as we continued on toward Dingboche.

We stopped in a tiny village for lunch, settling at the only tea house that was completely empty. I couldn’t decide if that was a good or bad sign. Good—because I wouldn’t be sharing germs with anyone. Bad—because maybe no one dined there for a reason! In the end, I opted for some comforting ramen soup and a Coca-Cola to play it safe.

When we finally arrived in Dingboche, relief washed over me as we checked into the Countryside Inn, a newer teahouse with the promise of a hot shower—after paying an additional fee, of course, which I happily forked over.

Soon, two American men arrived, bringing some lively energy that would entertain us for the next few days. With a comfortable lodge and no rush to reach EBC, I decided to take a rest day here. Little did I know, this would turn out to be a fantastic choice!