About Me

Success is not final, failure is not fatal: It is the courage to continue that counts. Winston Churchill

Growing up in Southern California, I never imagined that I would one day stand atop the world’s highest mountains, let alone become the first U.S. woman to summit all 14 of them. This dream often felt like a story confined to the pages of books—distant from my sea-level beginnings, where I frequently heard, “girls don’t surf,” and was discouraged from pursuing athletics.

After high school, I moved to Breckenridge, Colorado, planning to take a gap year before attending college at UCLA. During this time, I worked delivering pizzas, cleaning houses, and trying my hand at competitive mogul skiing. Once I experienced life in the mountains, I was captivated by their rugged beauty and challenges, realizing I could not return to California. Instead, I chose to study biology at The Colorado College.

The mountains imparted a crucial lesson: obstacles are temporary, and adversity is essential for growth. I began hiking Colorado’s 14,000-foot peaks and soon progressed to learning glacier skills while climbing on Mount Rainier, Alaska and in Peru. It was during this transformative period that I discovered my calling to help others as a physician.

Everest at sunset – Photo Jaco Ottink

As my passion for mountaineering grew, I had the honor of working with the National Park Service on Denali in Alaska for two seasons, where I provided medical assistance and participated in rescue operations. In 2012, I even had the opportunity to summit Denali.

However, pushing my limits took a toll on my body. I developed hip pain that ultimately required a hip replacement at the age of 39. Unwilling to give up mountain climbing, I turned to opioids to help sustain my pursuits. Despite my struggles, I continued working at my local hospital while using my vacation time to serve as the team physician for six international expeditions in Nepal and Tibet, including climbs on Manaslu, Makalu, and Cho Oyu.

Tracee ice climbing in Ouray. Photo: Mary White

Photo credit: Sarah Banks

As I summited Everest and Cho Oyu alongside my team, I grappled with a mix of pride and shame. My dependence on opioids became something that could no longer be ignored, leaving me feeling like an imposter. Ultimately, I was forced to step away from my work as a physician to seek the help I needed.

Losing my identity as a healer left me feeling adrift, and I feared I would always be defined by my mistakes. However, I found renewed purpose by deciding to climb all 14 peaks—not as a team physician, but as a client. This shift marked a new chapter in my life, allowing me to reclaim my passion for the mountains while focusing on my recovery.

Now, I aspire to use my achievements to help those less fortunate than me—guiding them to achieve their own dreams and discover their calling. I believe that everyone deserves the opportunity to pursue their passions and find their path, just as I did. If you resonate with this vision, please consider donating to the causes I support by visiting the “Giving Back” section of my webpage.

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