Copyright © 2024 Tracee Matcalfe, All Rights Reserved. Site by iGuate.com
Introduction:
I traveled to Makalu basecamp on foot with the Expedition Base team. The trek was such a fun adventure that I will write it up separately. After completing all 14 peaks I still look back on Makalu as my favorite mountain climb for so many reasons. I hope you enjoy.
Expedition Base puja.
Approaching ice wall above C1.
4/25 – 4/28: 1st Rotation
After spending several days at Advanced Base Camp (ABC), it was time for Lakpa and me to bid farewell to our team of trekkers and begin our first rotation up to Camp 1. The route above ABC led us through a mini icefall with snow penitentes, uniquely shaped by the wind and sun, alongside shimmering glacial lakes. We encountered a steep rocky wall equipped with a fixed rope to serve as a handline. After climbing this 60-foot section, we navigated a dirt path that eventually brought us to the snow and crampon point. Upon our arrival, there was still some work to be done setting up the tents, but it wasn’t long before we were ready to eat and hydrate.
The next day, we set out to tackle the ice wall that stands between Camp 1 and Camp 2. I recalled this section being particularly challenging during my 2015 ascent, and I was eager to see how my skills had developed over the past four years of climbing and training. The wall was just as I remembered, but thankfully, due to my improved footwork, the ascent felt both steep and enjoyable. We reached Camp 2 in about 3 hours, maintaining a relaxed pace with several breaks along the way. Upon arrival, I could feel the effects of the altitude, experiencing a mild headache, but nothing too troubling.
That night, my sleep was fitful due to the headache, so I was relieved when the sun rose the next morning, allowing me to get up and move around. I’ve learned that altitude headaches often improve with movement and gaining elevation. We spent the day walking around and acclimatizing to this new elevation.
The following morning, we rose around 8:30, savoring coffee and oatmeal before making our way back down. The initial part of the descent was straightforward, but I felt a surge of anxiety as we approached the ice wall. Fortunately, I managed to rappel down without incident, which was satisfying. Lakpa took his time, ensuring each anchor was secure, so I waited for him at Camp 1 before we descended together to base camp, arriving just in time for lunch.
Looking out the tent at C2.
Brad, Billy, Sarah, and Tracee
4/29 – 5/4: Rest Days
We spent about a week resting at ABC due to weather conditions while waiting for two members of our team, Chris Warner and Joie S., to arrive. Both had previously attempted to summit Makalu and had trekked in during earlier years, so this time, they preferred to acclimatize in the Khumbu before taking a helicopter to join us at base camp.
During our time there, we celebrated several highlights, including our puja ceremony, countless games of cards, getting to know my teammates better, visiting with my Colorado friends Sarah, Billy, and Brad, and deepening my friendship with Viebeke from Norway.
5/5 2nd Rotation: BC – C2
Finally, the waiting was over, and it was time to do another rotation on the mountain. Lakpa and I climbed together while Chris climbed with Chirring, Joie with Pasang. This allowed each of us to climb at our own pace. The trip to C2 went smooth and I felt more confident on the icewall. We elected to move directly to C2 and skip C1.
Ice wall above C1.
Lhotse and Everest as viewed from C2 on Makalu.
5/6 C2 -> Towards C3
The night was very windy, making it difficult to sleep as I worried about being blown away. I finally got up around 5 a.m. to pee and was greeted by stunning views of Lhotse and Everest. After that, I fell back into a deep sleep until nearly 9 a.m., when the sun warmed our tents, prompting us to heat water for coffee.
Around 10 a.m., we finally set out, with Chris and Chirring leading the way. I felt pretty rough—dizzy and out of breath. Eventually, I resorted to taking rest steps, allowing the others to move ahead of me, and I immediately felt better once I slowed down. To my surprise, Chris and Chirring turned back just above the first steep section due to the cold. Lakpa and I continued climbing until we reached nearly 23,000 feet, at which point we decided to turn around. I managed the descent using an arm wrap, later switching to abseiling following Lakpa’s advice. Surprisingly, I was not terrified, and I actually enjoyed this acclimatization climb.
When we finally made it back to Camp 2, I could relax and enjoy a delicious serving of spicy potatoes that Chirring had heated up. Afterward, we all fell asleep before sunset, content in the knowledge that we were in one of the most amazing places on earth.
Chris, Chirring and Lakpa at C2.
Rappelling down the ice wall.
5/7: C2 -> ABC
We got up slowly around 8 a.m. as the sun rose. I drank my coffee and had a few ginger snaps before eventually packing up and heading down. Chris Chirring left in a big rush, and I was grateful not to be on their schedule. Chris wasn’t feeling well and wanted breakfast at ABC. We practically skipped down to the fixed headwall, and then we each took different ropes so we could take some photos of each other. This time, I didn’t feel scared at all; I just felt alive and happy.
5/11 Summit Rotation: ABC —>C2
The day began leisurely and enjoyable as we navigated through the icefall, crossing the frozen lake beneath our feet and then scrambling up the 60-ft rocky wall leading us to Crampon Point. It was here that we donned our crampons and climbing gear. The ascent to Camp 1 was bustling, with some teams heading up and others making their way down. After Camp 1, we encountered the ice wall, which didn’t pose any challenges for us that day.
Frozen lake on the way to C1.
The route to C1, entering the icefall.
As we neared Camp 2, we were confronted by a gaping crevasse that had opened up, blocking our route. After a brief discussion, we determined that we could jump across it since a fixed rope was available for safety. We easily cleared the crevasse and continued on our way.
Once we arrived at Camp 2, we settled into our tent, organized our gear, and started melting snow for water. The view from here was breathtaking, with stunning vistas of Everest and Lhotse towering in the background. In that moment, I felt incredibly happy and grateful to be in such a remarkable place.
More photos of Lhotse and Everest.
C2 is getting crowded with tents now.
5/12: C2->C3
I struggled to sleep the night before, knowing we were about to tackle what many consider the crux of the climb. Reminding myself that I had two rotations under my belt and had already climbed partway to Camp 3 helped ease my nerves.
The day began with challenges; the low-angle slope to our friends’ camp felt impossibly steep, and I started to panic, realizing we had a long way to go. After passing our friends’ camp, I resigned myself to moving slowly and steadily.
At one point, Ang Dorjee raced past us, seemingly in a hurry because he had forgotten a shovel. It was impressive to see him moving so swiftly at altitude while I staggered along at a snail’s pace. Eventually, we reached the high point from my previous trip and approached the rocky section. I felt less afraid as I crossed the snow before the rocky section began.
However, upon reaching the rocks, the real challenge emerged. I started moving slowly but confidently, only to be overwhelmed by fear as the icy terrain revealed sheer blue ice patches between the rocks. I began to question my ability to continue and thought about turning back, but Lakpa urged me on. Anxiety washed over me as I imagined how I would descend, prompting me to check each anchor and visualize rappelling down, which felt daunting. I promised myself that I wouldn’t attempt to descend this section on summit day, knowing I couldn’t face it completely exhausted.
Eventually, we reached the top of the precarious rocky area on Makalu LA and took a much-needed break to enjoy the view and refuel. Lakpa mentioned that his eyes were bothering him and that he needed to wear his goggles. I felt a wave of concern; I couldn’t believe he might be experiencing snow blindness even with his sunglasses. Selfishly, I worried about what this meant for our climb.
Looking up towards the Makalu La and C3.
Looking up towards Makalu La.
As we resumed our ascent up what should have been a short snow slope dotted with rocks, I initially felt good. However, the heat combined with the snow soon transformed it into a snow desert, forcing me to creep up the gentle slope at an agonizingly slow pace. When we reached what should have been an easy snow traverse, I froze in fear, tangling my feet as I staggered. I cautiously made it across and paused to catch my breath.
I repeatedly told myself that if we didn’t reach the summit this time, I wouldn’t attempt this section again. As the day wore on, both of us began to feel cold despite the sun overhead. We finally topped this section, but there were still no tents in sight. Just then, Lakpa pointed to a solitary tent being battered by the wind not far from us, looking cold, hostile, and uninviting.
When we reached the tent, we squeezed in with Lakpa, Ang Dorjee, and Pem Dorjee. I crawled to the back, stepping over the two Sherpas, too exhausted to complain. I felt thoroughly drained, hungry, and thirsty. The thought of using my pee bottle while wedged in the cramped space made me hesitate to rehydrate. I remember feeling cold and uncomfortable as we had dinner, and I quickly crawled into my sleeping bag to keep warm. As Lakpa’s eye continued to bother him, I helped him with some eye drops, and he suggested I start using oxygen. I eagerly agreed.
5/13: C3-C4
Ang and Pem got up and prepared some hot water before eventually heading out. It was quite cold and stormy outside, and I felt exhausted from the previous days’ efforts, so I was reluctant to go anywhere. Thankfully, Camp 4 was just a short climb away, and Lakpa wasn’t in any hurry to get moving.
We were on the radio, trying to decipher the weather forecast and determine whether we should stay put or proceed to Camp 4. Eventually, we decided to move up since it seemed the weather might improve enough for a summit attempt the following day, and we wanted to be in position. However, when we started climbing, we encountered a complete whiteout, barely able to see ten feet in front of us. Traveling roped together, we managed to find wands that guided us along what we hoped was the right path.
As the weather continued to deteriorate, we stopped to put on all the clothes we had. Despite that, we were still freezing and miserable, feeling hopeless about finding Camp 4 amid zero visibility. Then, unexpectedly, we stumbled upon Pem, who was heading back to Camp 3 for reasons unknown. At that point, the three of us huddled together, and Lakpa decided it wasn’t safe for Pem to continue, so he turned him around, and the three of us pressed on toward Camp 4.
Miraculously, the weather finally cleared, allowing us to see the route, and we made our way to Camp 4. However, we faced a treacherous section of blue ice where none of us could gain any traction with our crampons. Moving slowly, we relied on our skills to avoid slipping. At that moment, my GI tract was rebelling; I desperately needed to find a place to relieve myself or risk a bad situation. Clinging to some semblance of modesty, I insisted that the others give me some space so I could take care of my needs.
By the time I reached Camp 4, I was utterly exhausted and frustrated with my situation. The four of us crowded into the cramped tent and immediately began the task of boiling water, forcing ourselves to eat and hydrate. Ang was part of the rope-fixing team, so we all did what we could to ensure he got the rest and nourishment he needed. The rope-fixing team was set to leave around 9 p.m., and due to the lack of space in our tent, we ended up lying in opposing positions, head to toe. I found it uncomfortable to have my head surrounded by people’s feet.
Our home at C4 for the next 2 nights.
View from C4.
5/14: First attempt at summit
Ang Dorjee woke up and left around 9 p.m. as part of the rope-fixing team. The plan was to give them a few hours’ head start before Lakpa and I set out for our own summit attempt. A few hours later, when it was time for us to prepare, I sensed something was off with Lakpa. He wasn’t making much sense, and alarm bells went off in my head. Despite my concerns, we ventured out into the night, but we struggled to find our way and felt freezing cold.
After several hours of aimlessly wandering without locating the route, we both agreed that continuing was futile and returned to the tent, where we promptly passed out for several hours. When we finally woke up to the rising sun, Lakpa admitted we had made the right decision to turn back.
Now safe and warm, we listened via radio to the Sherpas fixing the route. Remarkably, they reached the summit, but not without suffering from frostbite and sheer exhaustion.
Eventually, Ang returned, completely spent and suffering from frostbite on the tips of several fingers, while Pemba continued descending with the rest of the rope-fixing team. We made Ang some water and encouraged him to eat, but he was too exhausted. He collapsed between us, sleeping soundly, and eventually accepted that he needed nourishment.
At some point, we heard the Taiwan team return to Camp 4, also unable to find the route. Aware that they had little food, we offered to share, but they declined.
Around 6 p.m., Lakpa and I attempted to sleep, alternating our heads and feet, with Ang totally exhausted in the middle. I don’t think I managed to sleep at all; all I remember is my legs involuntarily kicking, as if they were alive with their own energy.
5/15 – To the summit
We woke up around 9 p.m. to prepare for our ascent. Lakpa seemed more alert than the previous day, moving swiftly as we left the tent between 9 and 10 p.m.
A steady stream of headlamps emerged from Camp 3, creating a surreal atmosphere. I recognized my friend Sarah by her long hair and Hestra gloves; to my surprise, she was using supplemental oxygen and was without Billy. I later learned they all decided to use oxygen after a tough climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3. Unfortunately, Billy was unable to continue due to an illness he’d picked up at Base Camp.
The route from Camp 4 was unclear, leading us to navigate slick blue ice without a fixed line. While I initially felt cold and slow, I gradually found my rhythm. We paused to chat with Brad, Sara, and John multiple times, allowing them to pass while we switched my oxygen tank for a full one.
Looking up from C4.
French Couloir.
We finally reached the French Couloir, where excitement mingled with anxiety. I reminded myself how much I enjoyed scrambling on rock as the sun began to rise, lifting my spirits. We moved slowly but steadily, trying to soak in the views while catching up to the leading climbers, though passing them proved challenging.
As we approached the first false summit, we encountered a woman in a lavender down suit who was struggling to breathe. I offered my inhaler, but she declined, saying she was okay. After passing her, we finally reached the sunlit false summit but lingered too long, allowing her to overtake us.
I felt relieved to see the fixed route leading to the true summit, but I hadn’t realized there were two false summits. Climbing the first was easy, but as we rounded a corner, the daunting traverse I had seen in pictures awaited us.
Approaching false summit.
Summit ridge.
The traverse had a single fixed rope anchored in snow, with a cornice on one side and steep cliffs dropping thousands of feet on the other. To complicate matters, Brad began to downclimb from the summit with his Sherpa, forcing us to pass him. “No way,” I thought. “This is close enough to the summit for me.” I shook my head at Lakpa, but he took my hand and urged, “Let’s go.” I stepped around Brad as he advised me to use my ice axe. After fumbling with my ice axe for a few minutes, I ultimately decided to put it back in my pack.
Just below the summit, we experienced a minor traffic jam. My impatience grew as I watched the woman in the lavender suit, who had been struggling before, recording multiple summit videos, no longer short of breath.
Finally, it was my turn to step onto the summit. Lakpa and I took a few photos before heading back across the traverse.
Just below the summit.
As we carefully retraced our steps, I spotted Chris and Chirring ahead. They moved gracefully and quickly without ice axes. I also saw Sarah and John and offered them encouragement.
Lakpa and I paused at the first false summit to eat, drink, and take a few more photos, trying to savor the moment. Although Lakpa’s eye was still irritated, he insisted he was okay, and we agreed there was no choice but to continue.
We finally reached Camp 4, where Ang Dorjee was waiting with water. We rested briefly, knowing we needed to reach Camp 3 before dark. To my relief, the traverse between Camp 4 and Camp 3 was straightforward when it was visible. Upon arriving at Camp 3, I crawled into our team tent, which we now jokingly referred to as “Pem Dorjee’s dorm room” due to its mess.
Lakpa was now full of energy and was moving around camp, checking on everyone. Shortly after, Phil and his elderly client Margaret arrived and settled into the tent behind us. We exchanged a few words with them, along with Vibeke and Allie, who were set to attempt their summit push without Sherpa assistance or oxygen in a few hours. Their excitement was palpable, and I was struck by how lighthearted their mood was. I’m not sure what we ate that night, but I soon drifted off to sleep.
View as we descend back to C3.
5/16: C3 to BC
The next morning, I felt a bit tired yet energized by the climb. Lakpa and I managed to get ahead of the large Seven Summits Trek group that was also descending. Once we reached Camp 2, we made some ramen, packed up as much as we could, and left the rest for Lakpa to return for later. Then, we began our descent to base camp.
At Crampon Point, we were welcomed with beer and Coke, and back then, I preferred the beer. After navigating the final rocky section and making our way through the icefall, we arrived back at base camp. There, Chris, Joie, and the rest of our team greeted us, and we celebrated with a delicious cake.