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9/5 -9/10: Fly to Kathmandu and Samagoan
We flew to Samagoan, where we spent two nights acclimatizing before trekking up to base camp. I first visited Samagoan in 2014, and it has certainly transformed over the last decade, with an increased number of teahouses catering to trekkers and climbers. The area feels almost magical, with its lush trees, low-lying clouds, cascading waterfalls, and a monastery perched high above the village.
Tracee hiking above Samagoan.
Sirbaz, Tracee, Anni, Paw Dawa and Ian.
The trek to base camp features some improved footbridges but remains largely unchanged since my last visit. With Pa Dawa leading us, we feel a sense of excitement and reassurance. His infectious enthusiasm and extensive experience—having summited Everest 26 times, tying him for the current record—add a fun touch to our adventure. As Anni, Justin, Ian, Sirbaz, and I share laughs and stories, the trek unfolds quickly, filled with camaraderie and anticipation for what lies ahead.
When we arrive at basecamp, I completely blown away by the size of the tents and campsites. It reminds me of Everest, with nearly all the commercial teams having large dome tents for dining or relaxing. While I find this somewhat repulsive, I understand this the direction that 8000-meter climbing is evolving.
Manaslu Basecamp as seen by drone. Photo: Mingma G
Route to C1.
9-11: BC -> C1
After a few days of rest, we set off for our first rotation. I’m climbing with Thundu, which is nice since we’ve previously climbed together on K2 and Broad Peak. Anni is paired with Ngima, Ian is with Pa Dawa, and Sirbaz doesn’t require any support.
The climb to Camp 1 is much shorter than I remember, thanks to the Sherpas, who have established a more direct route. It also feels easier than before, though I suspect that’s simply my perception; I have gained a lot more experience since my last ascent a decade ago. Camp 1 is now situated a bit higher than where Himex used to establish its camp.
Video credit: Anni Penttila.
Tracee and Anni.
Anni and I have decided to share a tent for the duration of the climb, which is convenient since we won’t have to worry about maintaining modesty. This allows us to focus on the climb and the tasks at hand.
9/12 C1 -> C2
The climb was similar to how I remembered it, featuring a mellow snow ascent followed by a steeper icy cliff and a traverse. This time, I felt more comfortable on my crampons and did not feel the need to arm wrap during the downclimb, unlike in 2015 when I injured myself by slipping hanging from an arm wrap.
Shinji San fixing the doctor back in 2015. Miss you friend.
Before we reach Camp 2, we must negotiate an area we used to call the hourglass, which involves climbing a short vertical snow wall. It has fixed ropes, so I assume it will be easy, but I still find the climb physically challenging at this altitude, though not as exhausting as it once was.
When we arrive at Camp 2, Anni and I again share a tent and begin eating, drinking, and preparing for the next day’s climb
Video: Anni Penttila
Approaching C3 with small “crux”. Photo: Justin Aniballi.
9/13: C2- C3
We set off climbing by 8 a.m. the next morning, but by then, the sun was blazing, making the ascent feel sweltering. The trek to Camp 3 primarily consisted of a snow slog, with one tricky section that required crossing a snow bridge before tackling some steep snow cliffs. Tension filled the air when Ian knocked down a chunk of hard snow, which struck Anni on the head. After exchanging a few terse words, we pressed on and arrived at what would be our Camp 3. Unfortunately, the camp was situated about 500 vertical feet lower than the standard location, meaning our future climb to Camp 4 would be even longer when we would come back in a few days.
Since everyone felt good, we jumped in to help the Sherpas prepare the tent platforms and set up the tent. As we worked, there was a palpable sense of luck in the air; here we were, alone at nearly 22,000 feet on an otherwise crowded 8,000-meter peak. I took a moment to soak it all in, trying to be fully present in this extraordinary experience—one that most people will never have the chance to encounter. Sirbaz played some Pakistani music, and we relaxed in the sun, savoring the warmth and the unique feeling of camaraderie in this isolated high-altitude haven.
Video: Anni Penttila
PaDawa, Anni, Thundu, Sirbaz, Tracee, Ian C3.
That night, Sirbaz joined Anni and me in the tent. All of us dealt with moderate altitude headaches and struggled to find a comfortable position. Anni and I shared a laugh about how stepping outside to pee involved just the right amount of “light activity” to keep our blood circulating and aid in our acclimatization.
9/14: C3 to BC
After a restless night of sleep at this altitude, we were all eager to return to base camp the next morning, and we were on the trail by 7:30 a.m. I struggle with downhill walking due to an arthritic knee that I’m trying to postpone addressing for as long as possible, so Thundu and I decided to let the others go ahead while we took our time descending.
As we made our way down, we encountered a small traffic jam below Camp 1, as larger teams began their rotations. For many of these climbers, this is their first 8000-meter peak, and they are still learning how move efficiently. We get back to basecamp around 12 pm just in time for a delicious hot lunch.
Tracee, Ian, Anni.
Imagine Nepal Team
9/15 – 9/17: Rest days
We ended up having four full nights to rest and recover at base camp, which felt like the perfect amount of time. Mingma G arrived, and our team swelled to nearly 40 client as the Chinese climbers joined us. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to know many of them because we had separate dining tents—one for our international team and another for the Chinese group.
Some highlights during our stay include the puja ceremony and several small hikes around base camp and to crampon point. We also receive exciting news: our climbing permits for Shishapangma in Tibet have been approved. However, this means that Mingma is now in a hurry to wrap things up here so we can start our ascent of Shishapangma.
Anni & Tracee post puja.
Mingma & Tracee
My emotions are mixed—while I’m thrilled about the permits, I feel a tinge of sadness knowing that we won’t have the chance for another rotation before our summit attempt. I had hoped to try Manaslu without oxygen, but I don’t think that will be feasible for me without another rotation where we can sleep higher on the mountain. Still, I don’t rule out giving it a go if I’m feeling good.
Upon reflection, I realize that if someone truly wants to attempt a summit without supplemental oxygen, they must be fully committed to that goal, even willing to sacrifice the summit to achieve it. After three previous visits to this mountain without reaching the top, my ultimate goal this time is undeniably to stand on the true summit.
9/18: Monday – BC – C2
Due to nerves, I slept very poorly the night before our summit push to Camp 1, waking up feeling unrested and annoyed. At breakfast, I sensed impatience among the team, which only fueled my frustration.
Overall, I felt better than I had on my first ascent to Camp 1. The heat wasn’t as oppressive this time. We set out in a drizzle, but by the time we reached crampon point, the clouds were clearing, and it was starting to warm up.
Upon arriving at lower Camp 1, I was pleasantly surprised to see Uta and enjoyed a brief chat with her. She was acclimatizing in preparation for Shishapangma and climbing with the Seven Summits Team. After our conversation, we continued to Imagine Nepal’s Camp 1, where we spent about an hour melting snow and having lunch before resuming our ascent to Camp 2. As we climbed, the sun intensified, making the journey feel nearly unbearable.
We leapfrogged through the next section alongside the Seven Summits team and observed that they chose not to clip into the fixed lines while navigating the melting snow bridges. I considered offering some advice but ultimately decided against it, trusting that everyone in that group had enough experience to make their own decisions. I was relieved when none of the snow bridges collapsed, allowing us to pass through without incident.
Thundu enjoying an apple. Photo: Anni Penttila
Cluster F at the ice wall. Photo: Justin Aniballi
When we reached the vertical snow wall, we found a line of climbers waiting to ascend. The Sherpas had set up an additional rope to help haul people up, as the queue was becoming too long. Neither Anni nor I were thrilled about this, but we understood that a lengthy traffic jam wasn’t safe, and if we wanted a pristine alpine experience, this wasn’t the mountain for that.
Upon arriving at Camp 2, I noticed it was much more crowded than before. Fortunately, Anni and I secured a tent all to ourselves.
9/19: C2-> C3
The journey up to C3 was uneventful. When we arrived at C3 it was much different than the last time. Tents were set up all over and the Imagines’ tents had been moved to a new location. After a fair amount of discussion, it was decided that Anni, Thundu, Nigma and I would need to share a tent.
Tracee @ C3. Photo: Anni Penttila
Climbers leaving C3 in route to C4. Photo: Mingma G
9/20: C3-> c4
I started the day in a foul mood because there were four of us crammed into one tent, and I had the misfortune of being stuck in the middle, which is my least favorite spot. My frustration was compounded by the unexpected wake-up call at 2:30 a.m. Instead of the anticipated 7 a.m. start to our climb, we were told to hurry up and eat breakfast on the trail, with no explanation for the change in plans—a situation that never sits well with me.
As I got up to head to the “toilet,” one of my water bottles slipped out of the new down suit’s water bottle holder and fell into the shit pit area. This really set me off. Knowing I needed that bottle for summit day, I had no choice but to retrieve it and rub it in some snow to sanitize it. It was revolting. After that, I returned to the tent to wait for Thundu to get ready, feeling increasingly annoyed by the middle-of-the-night wake-up, the rushed breakfast, and the sense of waiting that followed.
Once we got started, I felt reasonably okay. I spotted Justin coming up behind me and thought it would be beneficial to follow him since he was using oxygen while I was not. Initially, I kept up well, though I felt cold and experienced some breathing issues. However, as the sun began to rise, I got even colder and began to panic about having an asthma attack from the frigid air. Thundu helped me find my inhalers, which provided some relief, but not as much as I had hoped.
I saw Chris Warner and Chirring descending; they had reached the summit earlier that morning. Chris had now completed his project of climbing all 14 of the world’s highest peaks, becoming the second U.S. climber to achieve this challenge. It was awesome to congratulate him.
Route to C4. Photo: Mingma G
Ice cliffs on the way to C4.
I began to mentally sabotage myself when I couldn’t keep up with Justin, and I noticed Chen Chen and others catching up to me. In retrospect, I wish I had focused on my own climb instead of worrying about them. I didn’t need to feel affected by others on oxygen passing me.
I stopped to rest a couple of times, but each time I did, I watched more climbers get further ahead, including a Spanish man and woman in red and yellow suits who were carrying heavy packs without oxygen. I started to worry about exhausting myself and jeopardizing my summit attempt the next day. None of those thoughts were helpful—I think I was searching for excuses to quit.
Before reaching the ice cliff, I decided to put on the oxygen mask. I had seriously underestimated the suffering involved in climbing without it. I found myself taking one or two steps and then needing to catch my breath, which felt abnormal. After talking to Anni, I realized that this was likely normal for those going without oxygen; the level of suffering is simply much greater.
As soon as I put on the oxygen, I felt an immediate improvement. It’s incredible how much the oxygen mask warms the air I was breathing, making everything feel better. My hands and feet also warmed up nicely.
Next, we encountered a few ice cliffs that required our full attention. I had caught up to Justin at this point and was grateful for his slow and steady pace. I was impressed by the skill with which he navigated the section; it was clear he had done his homework and was well-versed in walking and front-pointing with his crampons.
Once we climbed above the ice obstacles, it became a hot slog through the snow for several more hours until we finally reached Camp 4. I tried to maintain a positive attitude, but I couldn’t help feeling frustrated with myself for having to use oxygen.
When I arrived at Camp IV I felt embarrassment that I was using oxygen but quickly realized that no one at this altitude was worried about anyone but themselves, not unlike at sea level. I climbed in the tent with Anni and Ngima who had arrived before me despite not using oxygen.
Thundu & Tracee approaching C4. Photo: Justin Aniballi.
Camp 4. Photo: Mingma G
9/21: C4 -> Summit -> Basecamp
Anni and Nima Nuru woke up around 11 p.m., an hour before Thundu and I planned to start, since Anni was attempting to climb without oxygen, which takes more time. I was happy to continue sleeping for another hour while they quietly got ready.
Once they were gone, Thundu and I enjoyed some coffee while I did my best to eat one of my raspberry fig bars. It’s hard to have an appetite and digest food above 24,000 feet. I felt reasonably good as we began our ascent around 1 a.m., and it was a relief to feel strong on summit day compared to how terrible I had felt at the start of Nanga Parbat.
Before long, we reached a section where the fixed ropes ended, and we had to climb a relatively steep area without ropes. We didn’t think it was necessary to rope together for this section, but I couldn’t help but wonder how climbers with less experience would manage the descent without a rope. Interestingly, I learned the next day that a rope had been added to this section for safety.
Tracee on the way to the summit. Photo: Justin Aniballi.
Line of climbers approaching true summit.
As we continued, I caught up to Sirbaz, who was climbing without oxygen or Sherpa support and had only had a chance to make one rotation. Despite looking slightly delirious, I was impressed by his determination to keep going, though I wasn’t surprised—he always had that tenacity and resolve.
Soon, we reached a plateau just as the sky began to lighten with dawn. We took a moment to pause for water and appreciate the beautiful surroundings. Shortly afterward, we traversed to the right of the false summit and encountered a small line of climbers waiting for their turn at the true summit.
To my surprise, I felt calm despite the significant exposure on the traverse. I knew the true summit was only big enough for one person at a time, and we reached the summit about 7 hours after we started. When it was my turn, Thundu snapped photos of me at the top, and I returned the favor. Although I didn’t feel particularly anxious, there was no reason to linger, so after capturing our photos, we began our descent.
Climbers approaching true summit. Photo: Suman Gurung.
Tracee summit Manaslu.
Thundu Sherpa summit Manaslu.
Waiting for helicopter in the rain.
We took our time on the descent. When we got to Camp 4, we packed up our things and continued down to Camp 3. At Camp 3, we took about an hour’s break to melt snow and eat some food. Eventually, we made it back to base camp a little before dinner time.
The following day, we packed up our things and headed back down to Samagon and were able to catch a helicopter 1 day later despite bad weather leading to an exhilarating helicopter flight in the clouds.